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From what I hear, Ballard, which used to be the Norweigen ghetto, is now the punk rock and roots rock center of the universe. Kind of weird, but low rent will do strange things. There's a record store there called Bop Street that's supposed to be good.
I have no idea what the club scene is like these days. I was born there, but I tend to stay away now.
As far as tourist stuff, I always loved the aquarium.
I highly reccomend the 13 Coins restaruant (kind of downtownish but off the beaten path) for swanky 24 hour dining with these amazing comfy booths. It's been open, and 24 hours, since at least the '70s - the type of place businessmen used to take their mistresses for affairs and not be seen because of the gigantic booths. The food is from moderate to somewhat pricy, but is totally gourmet.
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